Well, we're back online after a pleasant couple of weeks at a place where there's no, or very little, internet access.

To start from where we left off... the 10th of May saw us picked up from the edge of the ice cap (Isortoq fjord) by boat, got treatment for Angus' toes, and we spent 2 nights at the hospital (it was actually the cheapest accommodation in town), waiting for the next helicopter service to the larger town of Tasilaq. The doctor reported '2nd degree frostbite' to his big toe, with full recovery to occur in the next 3-6 months, and that our decision to turn back was 'the only correct one' given our circumstances. In Tasilaq we spent more time 'chilling out' (or maybe 'thawing out'!), and organised our passage to our recent abode and ski-destination town, Kangerlussuaq. Thirty days of skiing were compressed into two hours in a flight in a Dash-7 across the icecap, on May 14. We descended from thick cloud to see a hilly landscape blanketed by snow: West Greenland.

Kangerlussuaq is an odd town: a 1950s US Air Base-come-tourist-hub, where the majority of passengers coming to Greenland pass through, ie, change flights. It sits amid amid rocky hills, not as jagged as near Tasilaq, but still heavily glaciated, with open grassy ground in places, a myriad of lakes, and quite lot of wildlife.

As for the town itself, well, the main feature is the runway (a BIG one: large enough to service loaded B52s). Then there is the airport infrastructure, and some box-like, military-style buildings, fuel silos, and various other industrial paraphenalia.

So... we decided to go hiking, mindful not to go too far or too hard, considering our slightly tender feet. In the end, we chose an easy route through the untracked wilderness east of the town, a region well-populated by musk oxen and reindeer. We were out for 11 days, spending the majority in a hunters' hut and taking small excursions from there.

The musk ox is a large beast, much like a bull, but in 70s style: covered in shaggy drapes of hair almost to the ground. It spends most of its time eating grass in small herds, and is extremely low in intelligence. Unlike most wild animals, the musk ox usually doesn't see hikers until long after they've seen the ox. Hikers need to therefore be a little careful that they don't approach too close to any oxen (knowingly or unknowingly), otherwise they are likely to either run away, or form into a defensive ring of animals. If they do the latter, the next level of engagement is to start 'snuffling' (apparently a Danish term - anyway, it's a kind of snorting by the alpha males), then after that, to charge at the threat. We were careful not to observe much of this first-hand; the charging bit was related to us by our Danish friend: 'yes, well you have seen these animals fighting and headbutting each other [which we had], well they do this to YOU!'. Enough said. The ox are not lazy though - when they flee, they gallop uphill. But as we said, they're stupid. One afternoon, a herd of 15 were heading along what was evidently an ox highway that we'd unwittingly bivvied on. Instead of walking around us, they stood and looked at us for perhaps half an hour, then turned back. At times when we accidently disturbed a few, they'd stand in their defensive ring until we were nearly two kilometres distant. I guess their lives in the Greenland hills donøt have much excitement.

After 11 days of much lazing about, eating, reading Bertrand Russell's History of Philosophy, laughing at musk ox, and occasional walks into the hills or to the icecap, we returned to Kangerlussuaq. The remainder of our time in Greenland we spent camped up the hill from the town, returning most days for essentials such as Danish Pastries.

We found that public internet access in Kangerlussuaq is as foreign a concept as is a laundromat. English reading material is equally scarce (ie, nonexistent), despite the town being the main hub for tourists and the US and Danish icecap research programs. The main hotel with over 200 rooms seems to be mostly empty, not surprising as the cheapest rooms are AU$280 per night. Despite these oddities, and the marked lack of activities for the visitor (the building marked 'Kangerlussuaq Entertainment Centre' has its front door boarded up), there are some liberalities: one can hike from untracked wilderness, cross a road, and through a door straight into the departure lounge, or through gaps in the fence onto the 3km long runway (though this would be best done outside the police station opening hours of 2-4pm); 50m from the international airport terminal is a supermarket with a rack of guns for sale located before customers even pass through the entrance turnstiles.

We were packing our equipment in front of the airport when a child of about 8 emerged triumphantly with a dead arctic fox in his hand, which he threw to the ground in front of us, pointed at and kicked. After an examination which confirmed it was really dead, we told him to take it away with stern pointing. We were a bit wary of foxes because our last encounter was with a rabid one on the hillside the day before: it was rifling through our food bag, we were thrice unable to chase the mad animal away, so not being in posession of our gun, all we could do was try to kill it with stones. We did not suceed at this morbid task however Angus sconned it a beauty on the leg and that was the last we saw of it.

Yes, that's the kind of place it is.

And today, 2 June, we boarded an Airbus, said goodbye to the Ice and the Ox and the Foxes and those damn Piteraqs and the lakes and the daylight that never ends and the peaceful solitude, and cruised back to the Madness of "Civilisation" at about 1000kmph.

Back online again...
Monday 9 May:
The wind today was again from the north, but a bit strong (about 20 knots) for our 5m^2 kites. At this stage we were about 25km due north of our pickup point on the Isortoq sound and edge of the icecap. Because it was a downhill, downwind run and one kite was tangled, we tried to kite together on the one kite. This was done with Angus in front controlling the kite and harnessed to the 2 sleds, with Simon at rear clipped to an attached webbing line. Unfortunately the wind was strong enough that it was very difficult to get the kite in the zone where it was pulling us along the ice – the kite would sail straight overhead where any attempts to dip it into the power zone were fraught with difficulty. With the large load behind, Angus found that this setup required enormous concentration and effort, he got hoisted into the air a few times and eventually we gave the idea away after 2km of exhausting sailing, when the kite lines broke (again). We covered the rest of the distance in about 6 hours, losing 1000m elevation. Getting off the icecap wasn’t entirely straightforward as we discovered two nunataqs, rock outcrops poking out from the ice and interrupting the glacier flow to cause crevassing. We took the long way around to avoid the uneven surface. We did some more terrain dodging before we got stuck in an ice-hummock field of refrozen melt streams. These hummocks became ridges of ice with sometimes 90 degree angles on them, some as high as 2 meters from trough to peak. Needless to say that it was hard pulling of our sleds and some swearing. We were, however, hypnotised by the magnificent views of the fjords, sea ice, ‘bergs and mountains that we missed on our assent due to inclement weather. The vista more than made up for the dodging and weaving. After some better ground and a fine downhill run to the spot where we entered onto the ice two weeks before we abseiled with our sledges onto the tide cracks and sea ice below. We saw more mammalian tracks in the snow, fresher than before. We set our camp on a small rocky spit nearby, comforted to be on dirt again, and began eating. As it was about -2 we were able to eat outside with comfort, however the rifle held a bullet in the breach, we were mindful of the warning ‘The trick with Bears is to start shooting as soon as you see them, because they run very fast’. We slept soundly having covered some ground for the day.
Tuesday 10 May:
We were woken by a white furry quadruped sniffing around our camp. It was bigger than a frog. Luckily it was a dog, a fact which was established immediately, sorry no suspense. After eating and repacking we skied back iver the sea ice to be picked up by a fisherman. We had a slight scare as the ice began to break up as we loaded the boat, leaving Angus with a foot on two flows moving apart, water spilling over his feet. Luckily we did not fall in any further and progressed to the tiny village of Isortoq, where we stayed in the hospital to await the helicopter service two days later. More to come...

The guys continued on back to N65º49.25' W38º59.68' today, which was reasonable progress. They're still going back downhill, and they had some northerly winds, so they got the kites out. Unfortunately, the wind freshed, so they broke one kite and nearly lost the other! They also tried out the smaller "storm kites". They're still at altitude 1050m at the moment, the temperature is -10C and the view of the mountains around them is beautiful. They'll continue their southerly run tomorrow downhill, which should see them most of the way back to the helicopter drop-off point.

Both are still well today, having made 17.8km over large sastrugi to N65º53.8' W39º16.9'. Conditions were very warm today, and Angus was walking bare-chested this afternoon! Now it's -15C and very clear overhead. They saw some bird droppings today, which was the first sign of life they've seen for quite a while!

Simon rang to say they've returned along the route they had taken so far, and have made it to location N65º55.6' W39º40.0'. Progress was good, making 21km, which was the best walking they've had so far - downhill! They got the kites out for a little bit too. It was a good opportunity to reflect on what's happened in the journey so far!

Today the Icefinders made the extremely difficult decision to turn back. They had another day in camp while they assessed some frostbite and consequent blood blisters Angus had received from some boots that weren't up to the job. They were going to have to climb another thousand metres or so over the rest of the trek, and the further risk to their health wasn't worth taking. This was a hard decision for them, and they regretted having to make it, but it was clearly correct to head back to Issiltaq now before serious trouble developed. All of us here at home commend their decision and sympathise with the disappointment they must feel after working so hard. We hope Angus doesn't suffer too much pain on the trip home, and wish them a safe, speedy and happy trek home!

Today Angus reported from "the big land of Green". They're at N65º57.84' W40º07.12' having made 10.7km today into a stiff headwind of around 25-30 knots. It was blowing snow and there were quite a few sastrugi. The wind increased in the afternoon, so they pitched camp when it reached 35-40 knots. The temperature is about -12C, and everything else is OK

Finally the storm is over! Both the guys are well, having covered 17.7km today. The winds were strong enough overnight to completely disintegrate their second effort at a protective snow wall! They have progressed to N65º55.6' W39º54.1'. There was an eerie silence while they were walking early this morning, with no wind blowing. Later in the morning, a wind sprang up from the east, with a little powder snow on it to add to the 70cm sastrugi. Later, this wind allowed them to briefly fly the kites for 4km, which was a wonderful experience. Now their camp is pitched and it is again eeriely silent and still. They are looking forward to more walking tomorrow!

The guys are still at same location as yesterday, because the storm continued through the day. The wind began dying down this evening - now only 30-40 knots and more gusty! They are looking forward to making a move tomorrow. In the meantime they've been lying around reading and tending their protective snow wall. It's only -5C so they're not very cold.

Despite Simon's joke about "mayday", both are still well and are evidently in high spirits. There was lots of background wind noise on the phone today. They made 700m today (to N65º53.26' W39º31.46') thanks to a huge "pittarak" storm wind. Simon estimated it at over 60 knots, but it would be impossible to tell - enough to wake the souls of the dead, anyway! They have built a big snow wall to keep the tent safe tonight. They expect the wind will die down about midnight, and are hoping for changed weather next week after the storm blows out. "Wish we were there!" says Simon.

Yesterday was a fairly good day for the boys, spent both hauling and finally some kiting in the afternoon light wind. They made 22.5km, then had a rest day today to do a bit of maintenance and rest up. They are at altitude 1325m and position N65º53.10' W39º30.6'. Plan to continue west another 300km or so to DYE2, a former American Cold War early-warning radar facility. In the mornings, they have become used to dealing with the layer of ice that forms inside the tent on the walls from their breath condensing. There's nothing like an early morning ice shower to wake you up!

Simon and Gus have continued climbing today, making 13.8km as the crow flies, and rising to 1341m to position N65º64.04' W39º00.95'. They are still well, apart from some blisters and a little sunburn. There were clear skies today, with some wind in the morning. Last night's temperature got down to -16C and at the time of the call, it was -14C, so it's definitely getting colder! Clearly the isolation is getting to them, as Simon reports tongue-in-cheek that "We love you Mark, and that's all that counts, buddy"!

Apparently the phone batteries have recharged, for we had a report from Simon today. They have moved another 11.7km as the crow flies to N65º49.69' W38º46.16'. The current temperature is -8C, and it is overcast with some snow. Unfortunately the phone cut out part way through the message, so we have no further details today.

Our intrepid explorers have progressed 9.5km to N65º43.64' W38º50.64'. Their elevation is now about 650m. Both are well. The weather is overcast with snow and an air temperature of -3C. The ground continued very slushy this morning so progress was slow, however in the afternoon it was colder and the snow was firmer. The satellite phone battery is running slightly low, as they haven't seen the sun yet, and so can't recharge it. They will only make emergency calls from now until they get to recharge it in better weather.

The Icefinders made their first satellite phone report after their first day on the icecap. Progress has been slow - after being dropped by the helicopter at lunchtime, they have made around 6km. Their positition is N65º38.68' W38º53.93' and altitude around 300m. It has been raining and snowing all day, so they are basically in whiteout conditions. Ground conditions are very slushy and it has been fairly hard going. Despite a temperature of -1C, they are in good spirits. The gear is in good condition, save for one thermos that exploded! They are intending to head due N tomorrow, gaining elevation, and hoping for better weather. They haven't spotted any bears, but have seen bear prints. Simon reports they are "locked and loaded and ready to fire as soon as we see them!"

Here’s the first of our updates from the ice! We’re reporting back home via satellite phone from a glacier in Iceland named Myrtasjokull. We're here for a shakedown trip to acclimatise ourselves and become familiar with our gear and the conditions that we’ll be encountering in Greenland. Our current bearings are North 63 degrees, 35.52 minutes and West 19 degrees, 11.69 minutes. The temperature is minus 12 degrees Celsius, and it’s a sunny day. Everything’s going well!

"I believe your freight may have gone to Finland", said Iceland Air Cargo... but luckily not, or so we think. In an ever-expanding saga of no-knowledge by British Airways and other cargo companies, we are left wondering where our "cosmetically damaged" box of ratpacks and ice gear is headed! At latest, it´s at Heathrow and awaiting the next flight to Reykjavik... or was that Keflavik... or perhaps Helsinki...
In the quest to find some nice snow to ski on and test our gear, we have rented a comfy VW for a week, for less than the price of 2 return bus tickets to a nearby city. Icelandic prices... stranger than fiction! We have loaded up all our gear and have sorted out some other things, such as freighting our gear to Greenland from here (we are not going to gamble again on excess baggage charges after some stories we have heard) and we have bought two small plastic sleds from the Icelandic Mountian Guides for less than half what we had intended to hire them for. They seem small and wonky, however we are assured that they will be fine. Just as we are assured that we have the worst kind of boots for the crossing. We have bombproof Crispi boots from EMC in Deepdene Melbourne, and we thought that they were ideal. They fit our crampons and are warm as toast as well, however we are told they will be uncomfortable on the long crossing and in addition that a client of the IMG recently SNAPPED A SKI using similar boots. We hate the idea of buying new boots as we love these ones, but if we must, well, our credit cards are not all maxed out yet.
Last night after getting fed up with trimming the skins for our skis and stitching our fingers more than the webbing we had to introduce to the skins as our skis are too long, we took the VW (aka TicTac) to some thermal pools known colloquially [sic] as ´Hot Pots´. For $5AUD each (bargain!) we had our run of these pools. It was blowing a gale and at 3 degrees C was quite cold to be out in our shorts, however the water was wonderfully warm and the evening ranged from sublime to surreal, as it snowed on us in the outdoor pools and steam scudded from the larger pools. We even used a large waterslide (bizzare concept really in such cold) and admired the scenery. Ah, Iceland.
Also we found a cheaper supermarket so we are fed again. Today has even been sunny, so aside from frustration over boots and freight, it has been ok. Now we leave the City for the Ice!!!

It is not growing like a tree
In bulk, doth make man better be
Or standing long an oak, three hundred year
To fall a log at last, dry bald and sere.
A lilly of the day
Is fairer still in may.
Although it fall and die that night
It was the plant and flower of light.
In small proportions we just beauties see
And in short measures, life may perfect be.

"Do you have any electronic equipment in that jacket sir?"
"No, only carabiners."
That was one of our more friendly encounters with airport staff during our 3-day journey to Reykjavik, Iceland (via Kuala Lumpur, Amsterdam and Copenhagen), where we are currently preparing for a shakedown ski trip. It has been a long trip but more by fluke than great planning we seem to have avoided jetlag, save that we wake early and crash the same. Our flights to Iceland take us both the furthest from home we have ever been. It´s cold, rainy and expensive here - a hamburger meal costs roughly AU$20!! We´re looking forward to our first camp cooking as a result. Iceland strikes as being a strange place. It has few trees and the people are very different. We were offered a beer from a 4th story balcony at about 8:30 am today (which we declined) and we have been beset with offers of assistance to go skiing- perhaps because our flight attire included wearing heavy telemark ski boots and full Mont jackets. Also amazing is that we have so far avoided any excess baggage charges (with 110kg of gear) and that everything has arrived in one piece (fingers crossed for our freighted box). We found in Denmark that the Tasmanian connections paid dividends. We are anxious to be on our way to the icecaps but cannot leave until our box arrives. At the moment it is sitting in London Heathrow whilst BA take their sweet time deciding what next to do with it. At least it is not lost! Pacing the streets of this cold city we are hamstrung getting things done as it is sunday, however we will just have to sit it out. We are hoping to get to one of the cities famoust ´Hot Pots´ this afternoon and soak. But our dreams are only of ice.

With departure only two weeks away, Angus and Simon have been in their last stages of getting and testing gear for the traverse. Recent acquisitions include telemark skis, GPS units, storm kites, ice hardware and camera gear. Simon is finalising our insurance contract, gun and radio licences; Angus has been working on our solar recharging setup: while on the ice, we will be using a flexi-solar panel to charge our batteries for cameras, radio and satellite phone. There are countless other tasks keeping us both busy, from maintaining the website to talking charity to negotiating freight and baggage - it will be a relief to get on the plane on April 6.
We are also enjoying the excuse to eat up big - a bit of extra insulation will help us up north!

Snowgum in Hobart has agreed to supply equipment including jackets, tent and stoves at cost price, in return for advertising in our expedition publicity. Most of this gear will be Fairydown brand. We are yet to find out if Fairydown can offer additional help with these prices. Thanks Snowgum!!

Late on February 24, bleary-eyed and fed up, Angus put the website online, jumped out of his chair at uni and dashed off into the night. "You little beauty," he beamed, "now I can have a life again!"

Not so fast... there is still a lot to organise, gear to find and sponsors to find before he and Simon head north. This website will be used to provide information, news, photographs and more about the traverse, its affiliates and in particular, charity activities.

Simon, after speaking to ABC western Victoria, expects to be interviewed in the next two weeks about preparations for the trip.

After a summer of fieldwork based at Davis station in Antarctica, Angus has returned to Hobart on the icebreaker Aurora Australis. His preparations for Greenland have been on hold because of this, but it's now full steam ahead... after a few beers at Salamanca, that is.